Furniture should be created to be pleasing to the eye as well as functional for its intended purpose. It should fit - in its environment and, as in the case of a chair, its user. It should not be obtrusive and dominating but subtly supporting and complimenting its surroundings. This is why wood furniture and preferably solid wood is desired. There is something about it that says it is right. It feels good and is pleasing to the touch. It is quiet yet definite in presence. My intent is to design and create furniture to exemplify the beauty of God's creation and the unique character of each board This intent in combination with time tested traditional joinery and finishing techniques results in family heirlooms to be handed down from generation to generation.
I mill and dry as much of my raw materials as I can. This gives me control from the time the tree is cut to the final product. It allows me to book match, color match, and figure match. Often I am able to construct an entire piece from one tree, avoiding the need to artificially blend woods together with dyes and stains as is common practice in the mass production market.
All wood expands and contracts with seasonal changes in humidity. The rate of this movement can be manipulated through the application of different finishes but it will move. I design all of my pieces to accommodate this movement through appropriate joinery. The result of ignoring this movement is cracked tops and sides, bound drawers, and unsightly defects. The master craftsmen of years past appreciated natures need to breathe and created the priceless antiques of today. Those who ignored it created kindling.
The joinery in my pieces is designed around function first and aesthetics second. Often a joint will need to accommodate wood movement and still provide a fair amount of strength. There is often a way to achieve great strength, accommodate wood movement, and provide beauty all at the same time. Also, I hand cut joints when needed, particularly dovetails. Each joint is hand fitted for precision and strength from mortise and tenon's, to hips, half laps, and dovetails.
I prefer to use traditional finishes such as hand rubbed oil and apply film finishes as desired by my clients. A common finishing process in my shop is the application of hand rubbed oil, hand rubbed satin lacquer, and polished low luster wax.. This creates a beautiful satin finish which is also durable and provides needed protection for decades of use. A high polish finish is used to create clarity and depth on pieces demanding of this presentation. An example of this is the use of figured woods such as quilted maple that I often combine with black cherry to create exquisite tops for dressers and chests.